Trekking to The Base of the World’s Third‑Highest Peak in Nepal

By Major Harry Deed, The Royal Anglian Regiment

Personnel from the Infantry Training Centre Catterick successfully completed Exercise NORTHERN BAYONET WARRIOR, a demanding trek to Kanchenjunga Base Camp (North) at 5,143m beneath the world’s third‑highest peak. One of eastern Nepal’s most remote routes, it tested endurance, resilience, leadership, and teamwork throughout.

When the email first arrived, I was immediately sold: Nepal, three weeks, and a Summer Mountain Foundation course sounded like the outdoor adventure I’d joined the Army for. As a complete novice, I assumed trekking to a base camp couldn’t be that hard—until the briefing revealed I’d be alongside PARAs, Gurkhas, and PTIs discussing oxygen bottles and crampons. My “relaxing break” suddenly looked unlikely.

Nepal greeted us with chaotic Kathmandu traffic and our first plate of momos. Reaching the trailhead was an expedition in itself: internal flights, long drives, and 4×4 journeys that were particularly punishing for someone 6’8”. Dal Bhat, Nepali tea, and spectacular scenery kept morale high, though one teammate’s first-ever boiled egg resulted in 24 hours of regret and a permanent ban. We reached the start point with guitars, laughter, and our new group anthem, “Nepali Ho”.

Day one brought the porters—effortlessly carrying impossible loads in sliders—swiftly denting our egos. The early days took us through cardamom farms, bamboo forests, waterfalls, and rickety bridges, always scanning for the elusive red panda. Ghunsa offered our first real rest and cultural exchange, including card games with fellow trekkers and a teahouse owner who had once worked for Marco Pierre White in Singapore.

An acclimatisation trek to Tomgya Hill introduced crampons, rope systems, and the first taste of high‑altitude winter conditions. By Khambachen, fatigue was setting in, so extra Tibetan bread became essential to “operational effectiveness”. A tough climb to a viewpoint overlooking Mt Jannu rewarded us with the serene Jannu Shrine and a rare moment of reflection.

The push to Lhonak brought rockfall drills, stunning views of Yalung Khang, and a memorable lunch of egg fried noodles. A real rockfall sent one group scrambling for safety, a sharp reminder of the environment we were operating in. That night, we huddled around a stove fuelled by dried yak dung, grateful for any warmth.

The final ascent began before dawn, head torches cutting through the dark as we raced a closing weather window. The climb was steep, slow, and oxygen‑thin, but reaching base camp brought an immediate sense of relief and achievement. We paused for prayers, photos, and quiet moments of disbelief before beginning the long descent back to Khambachen ahead of the storm.

This was a once‑in‑a‑lifetime experience—challenging, humbling, and unforgettable. Our sincere thanks go to the Berlin Infantry Brigade Memorial Trust Fund for making it possible.