Gurkha Veteran Hari Budha Magar, has become the first double above-knee amputee to summit the highest peaks on all seven continents, having reached the top of Mount Vinson in Antarctica. Following years of preparation and a hard three-day climb, Hari and his team members Abiral Rai Mingma Sherpa and climb leader Jangbu Sherpa, battled -25C temperatures to reach the summit of the 4,892m peak. Antarctic winds, treacherous slopes and freezing ice fields tested the former infanteer’s mind, body and prosthetic legs to the extreme.
“The climb was very tough, the conditions and difficulty meant that I was literally crawling up on all fours, battling my way up the mountain,” said the former Royal Gurkha Rifles NCO.
Having successfully negotiated the Branscomb Glacier, where the team had to climb roped together to overcome the dangers of hazardous crevasses, they then climbed over 1000m in elevation using fixed ropes on 45° slopes, where the mix of soft snow and windblown icy patches slowed progress on their way to the high camp. From there, the team had a big push to the summit, where the route became even more exposed and subject to high winds.
Summiting Mount Vinson not only marks another world first in mountaineering for the climber, but is also a major landmark in his mission to create awareness of disability and “inspire others to climb their own mountain, whatever that might be”.
After losing both his legs in 2010 to an IED, Mr Magar struggled with his mental and physical recovery. It was a tough journey that included thoughts of suicide and addiction. But with the support of his family and veteran charities, he found a new purpose from the world of adventure and sport, starting with a skydive, then golf and skiing, before wanting to take on a childhood dream to climb Mount Everest, with his seven-summit journey starting in 2018.
Through his Conquering Dreams – 7 Summits challenge, he is raising money for veterans’ charities, including The Gurkha Welfare Trust, Blesma, Team Forces, On Course Foundation and Pilgrim Bandits.
